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Discover the enchanting world of scented flowers with these native UK herbaceous perennials. From the delicate sweetness of Woodruff and Sweet Woodruff to the timeless elegance of Lily of the Valley, these plants bring fragrance and beauty to any garden. Valerian illuminates at dusk with its scented white clusters of flowers. hile Herb Robert releases its pungent aroma when touched. Meadowsweet enchants with its honey-like scent, and Jacob's Ladder beckons with its clusters of blue bells. Marshmallow and Sweet Cicely add a touch of intrigue, while Betony graces the landscape with its regal purple spikes. Explore these scented wonders, tailor-made for different garden conditions, and let their perfumed allure transport you to a fragrant paradise. Woodruff (Galium odoratum) is a herbaceous perennial that thrives in shady areas with moist, well-drained soil. It forms a lush carpet of green foliage and small white flowers in late spring or early summer. Woodruff prefers partial to full shade and can tolerate dry shade once established. Sweet Woodruff (Asperula odorata) is a shade-loving plant that prefers moist, well-drained soil. It features delicate whorls of leaves and clusters of small white flowers with a sweet scent. It can tolerate dry shade and is an excellent choice for woodland gardens or under trees. Lily of the Valley (Convallaria majalis) is a classic woodland plant that thrives in partial to full shade. It has broad, lance-shaped leaves and produces fragrant, bell-shaped white flowers in late spring. It prefers moist, humus-rich soil and spreads slowly to form a dense ground cover. Common Valerian Valeriana officinalis (above) is a captivating herbaceous perennial with clusters of pale pink or white, fragrant flowers. Attractive fern-like foliage. Prefers full sun to partial shade in moist, well-drained soil. Valerian's sweet, musky fragrance, reminiscent of vanilla, making it a wonderful addition to any scented garden. Dame's Violet Hesperis matronalis (pictured below) is a charming biennial or short-lived perennial that graces the garden with clusters of fragrant flowers in shades of purple, pink, and white. This versatile plant thrives in full sun to partial shade and adapts to various soil types. Emitting a sweet and spicy fragrance, Dame's Violet attracts butterflies, bees, and other pollinators from late spring to early summer, Meadowsweet (Filipendula ulmaria) is a versatile plant that can thrive in both sun and partial shade. It prefers moist or damp soil, making it suitable for rain gardens, pond edges, or moist meadows. It produces clusters of creamy white flowers with a sweet, honey-like fragrance. Jacob's Ladder (Polemonium caeruleum) is an attractive perennial that prefers partial shade and well-drained soil. It forms clumps of fern-like foliage and bears clusters of blue, bell-shaped flowers in late spring or early summer. It can tolerate some dryness but prefers consistently moist soil. Marshmallow (Althaea officinalis) is a tall perennial that thrives in full sun or partial shade. It prefers moist to wet soil and can be grown near ponds or in rain gardens. It produces pale pink flowers with a subtle fragrance and has medicinal properties associated with its roots. Sweet Cicely (Myrrhis odorata) is a shade-tolerant plant that prefers partial shade to full shade. It has lacy foliage and bears umbels of small white flowers in early summer. Sweet cicely prefers moist, well-drained soil but can tolerate some dryness once established. Betony Stachys officinalis (above) is a hardy perennial that thrives in full sun or partial shade. It prefers well-drained soil and produces spikes of purple flowers in summer. Betony can tolerate dry conditions but performs best in moderately moist soil. Indulge in the captivating scents of our top 10 native UK herbaceous perennials. From delicate sweetness to timeless elegance, these plants bring allure and beauty to any garden. With unique aromas and distinctive scents, they create a fragrant oasis. Discover these enchanting perennials, tailored to various garden conditions, and transform your space into a fragrant paradise that delights both you and wildlife.

Bellis perennis, commonly known as the common daisy or English daisy, is a popular flowering plant belonging to the Asteraceae family. It is native to Europe and western Asia, and has been introduced to other parts of the world as an ornamental plant. In this blog, we will explore the distribution of the common daisy, the insects that use it as a food plant, and its unique floral structure. When I say distribution I don't mean all over your lawn. I am of course referring to it's global or geographical spread. I once visited a garden where the "lawn" was little more than moss with some fine leaved grasses in patches that was mown to within an inch of it's life. The chap proudly announced that 'Any daisy shows its head in here, and the mower comes straight out.' The image above shows quite clearly what he was missing out on. Not only that, how much must he hate bees? Distribution of the Common Daisy: The common daisy is a widespread plant, found across Europe, western Asia, and parts of North America. It is commonly found in grasslands, meadows, lawns, and roadside verges. The plant prefers well-drained soil and full sun exposure. https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:184409-1 Green shows natural distribution. Purple shows introduction. Insects that use the Common Daisy as a Food Plant: The common daisy is an important food source for many insects, including bees, butterflies, and hoverflies. Bees are the primary pollinators of the plant, and the nectar-rich flowers attract many different species of bees, including bumblebees, honeybees, and solitary bees. The leaves of the plant are also eaten by the larvae of some moth species, such as the grey pug and the small white wave. Floral Structure of the Common Daisy: The common daisy has a unique floral structure that sets it apart from other plants in the Asteraceae family. The flower head, which appears as a single flower, is actually made up of many small flowers called florets. Each floret has a yellow disc in the center and white petals around the outside. The yellow disc contains both male and female reproductive structures, while the white petals are sterile. Similar flowers Two other native UK wild flowers are oxeye daisy and corn chamomile. Their flowers are both similar in structure to the common daisy, though the plants themselves set them apart from the low growing daisy. We are all familiar with the tight rosette of oval, ground hugging leaves that form the common daisy plant. The oxeye daisy Leucanthemum vulgare has an oval leaf also but with a more serrated edge. They also grow to 50cm plus which is way beyond the scope of our delightful daisy. The corn chamomile Anthemis arvensis, has feathery slender stems. It is also an annual and is usually found in recently disturbed land. The other two are perennial and prefer not to be disturbed. The common daisy is a beautiful and important plant that supports a diverse range of insect species. Its unique floral structure is fascinating and highlights the complexity of the natural world. Whether you come across it in a meadow or in your own backyard, take a moment to appreciate the beauty and importance of the common daisy. By all means show children how to make a daisy chain, but don't be the idiot who gets the mower out and cuts off all the heads so there's no food for our important insects. John Grundy established Wilderness Tamed in 2012 after working for the National Trust for six years. Combining horticultural knowledge with conservation and habitat management skills a niche business offering wildlife friendly gardening services. Specialising in ponds, wild flower meadows and lawns as well as broader habitat maintenance. John also travels extensively teaching the art of scything.

How to attract more wildlife to your garden using native plants as well as exotics. If you've been wondering how to use native wild flowers more effectively in your garden then the answer is here. It doesn't always mean turning one corner of your garden into a wild untamed messy plot, that you soon lose interest in. Many of our native wild flowers are highly decorative, scented, and hardy enough to withstand whatever our weather can throw at them. From tall majestic spires, umbells and gently waving stems to compact ground cover plants, our native flora can fill any niche. So read on, get inspired and start planning what changes you can make in your beds and borders. It's so easy to grow native plants. Let's be totally honest, they've been around long enough, they can adapt to anything. Field scabious, yellow loosestrife and achillea blend together perfectly in a mixed herbaceous border. Sow the seeds where you want them to grow. Buying seeds of individual species is the cheapest way to go. But plug plants work just as well and give you a slight head start. Sowing most perennial native seeds requires a minimum of effort on your part. slightly disturb the soil with a hand fork, hoe or rake. Scatter a pinch of seed. Firm in (press the seed onto the soil surface with the back of your hand or a flat piece of wood) then go and have a cuppa. You've earned it. Any time of year is fine but optimum germination will happen between March and October when the soil is warm. Jacob's Ladder is a fine native perennial. Growing in wood edges and hedgerows as well as open meadows. Many hybrids are available but you can't improve on something nature has already perfected. What do you want from your garden? I want to relax more, do less weeding and enjoy my garden. Ask yourself what your priorities are for your garden. Attracting more wildlife should be up there in the top three. Purple loosestrife throws up tall spires of deep magenta flowers. Perfect for the back of a border along with spiked speedwell (seen in the background) delphiniums and lupins. It all begins with the soil. A decent loamy soil is ideal for most native and exotic plants, but if you have clay, sandy or chalky soil don't give up. Research what species will tolerate those conditions and spend money investing in what will thrive rather than wasting money on what will die. The plants you choose will have an effect on the insects that visit. they in turn can attract other wildlife. Birds, amphibians and reptiles and small mammals. Your challenge as a wildlife friendly gardener is to create an ecosystem in your garden. One in which the wildlife contributes to the overall management of the space you share together. Meadow Clary is a multi stemmed free flowering native that blends well into a herbaceous perennial border. Bees love it! So what do you do after the seeds go in? You sit back and wait. It's incredible how quickly native plants will establish and flower. They contribute massively to an already established herbaceous perennial border. I'm not one for large blocks or drifts, as used to be the fashion in garden design. Nature doesn't really operate that way. Dot in new plants in a more random array. Pinpoints of colour dappled throughout your border will create a more natural looking meadow style theme. Greater knapweed is a stunning native perennial that flowers for months attracting butterflies and bees. How do you maintain your native wild flower border? A simple cut down at the end of the year, just as you would do in any herbaceous perennial border. Obviously I use a scythe, but shears can do the same job. Even hedge cutters. Be careful if you've used stakes or canes to support some of your exotic perennials, such as delphiniums. Remove these before wading in and cutting everything down. Remove all the cut plant matter and compost it. Shouldn't take too long depending on the size of your border. Then I would recommend another cuppa. Because you're worth it. Where do you get your native wild flowers from? Well, you can get them from Wilderness Tamed of course. There's a variety of individual species, as well as blended mixes, that do well in most soil types and provide nectar for pollinating insects. They also look stunning in a border. Buy yours here now all picture credits go to me John Grundy. Taken in my own garden and some of my customers gardens. Top image shows native wild carrot and vipers bugloss in an established border. John Grundy established Wilderness Tamed in 2012 after working for the National Trust for six years. Combining horticultural knowledge with conservation and habitat management skills a niche business offering wildlife friendly gardening services. Specialising in ponds, wild flower meadows and lawns as well as broader habitat maintenance. John also travels extensively teaching the art of scything.

If you have to ask that question, you really really need to read this. Of all the vital features that should be incorporated into a garden, the pond is top of the list. You will benefit, trust me on this, I'll explain more as we go on. But also the creatures around you will enjoy the pond as well. A pond increases the range of plants you can grow in your garden. Sweet! A pond reduces the amount of lawn you have to mow every week. Bonus!! A pond attracts birds without the expense and mess of putting up feeders. Boom!!! A pond creates habitat for a range of invertebrates and amphibians. Nailed it !!!! As I've mentioned in some of my Youtube videos, as well as in other pages on this site, all our houses are built on what used to be valuable habitat for wildlife. Maybe yours was built on an old brownfield site or an over grazed horse paddock. Perhaps some scrubbed over waste land was cleared to make way for your estate. Maybe (like they've done for HS2) an ancient woodland or wildlife trust reserve was ploughed up so that some greedy developer could squeeze in as many shoddily built houses as possible. OK, now that we all feel really guilty about the roof that's over our heads, I'll elaborate on why a pond is incredibly important for wildlife and ourselves. I briefly listed the benefits to wildlife up above and we've established that our homes are built where once was a paradise. As least a paradise to a select variety of species. Yes, even a scrubbed up wasteland provides a place to live for a range of insects, birds, small mammals and possibly reptiles and amphibians. So as a wildlife friendly gardener, like what I am, we all need to think about repaying those species with a space they can share with us. Ponds have been declining across the globe, not just in the UK. Ponds and wetlands have been lost to development in building, agriculture, infrastructure and drainage schemes over the last one hundred years with a noticeable rapid increase in the last twenty years. All this human activity puts pressure on the natural world. Gardens need to be reimagined as the next nature reserves. Let's face it, they're in no short supply. So how does this help you? From my own experience and the testimonies of many of my customers over the years, having a pond or two in your garden makes the space so much more relaxing. The water need not be moving either. None of my own ponds have pumps or filters in them, moving the water round. Just the sunlight shining on the water can transfix our gaze and take our minds away from the stresses of daily life. I have three ponds at home and one sits right next to my decking. I have spent hours swinging in the hammock on the edge of the deck, staring into this shallow pond watching the numerous newts, courting and feeding during the Spring months. Frogs will bask on the pond edge in the grass chilling out with me during the summer. Dragon and damsel flies drift about on sunny days looking for other insects to hunt and places to lay their eggs. I have even had a water shrew come through on occasion, investigating the ponds for food in the form of tadpoles and invertebrates. Birds enjoy bathing in the ponds and I do have a heron visits in the early spring. It does take a few frogs but to be honest I haven't noticed a massive decline in population. The larger pond hosts about sixty to seventy adult frogs per year. This is a purely natural part of the food web and so the heron is left to it's own devises. If it were a cat however (Not native to the UK) I'd be out giving chase. Being next to water is something even the most street hardened cynic can enjoy. We naturally gravitate to water in all it's forms. The sea, rivers and streams, ponds and lakes. Who doesn't enjoy a picnic by a rivers edge or overlooking a lake. Watching the sunset over the ocean with a drink in our hands. So having even a small water feature in our garden can help massively with calming our souls. Watch this short film of a pair of palmate newts courting in my pond and tell me you haven't found it enchanting. Especially the bit where the second male comes barging in. Much like the ponds out in the countryside don't have pumps and filters, your garden pond needn't either. Yet naturally occurring ponds seem to be able to remain clear and look healthy and filled with life. How do they manage that without a filter system? As mentioned before in other videos and lessons, balance is the key. A good mix of plant and animal life will contribute to keeping a pond crystal clear. Plant roots are a natural filter. Their roots guzzling up nutrients that would otherwise build up to unhealthy levels in the water. Invertebrates help keep the pond clear and tidy of leaf debris by munching away at rotting vegetation. Water fleas (Daphnia) feed on single cells of algae to prevent blanket weed choking the pond. Look again at the video above and notice how many daphnia are drifting about in the water......There's thousands of 'em! So the key trick to having a very low maintenance pond is balance. Having a good selection of different plants, invertebrates and amphibians is essential. The video below shows an adult frog and tadpoles enjoying the clear, warm shallows of one of my garden ponds. The margins are densely planted with a range of native plants. DO NOT INTRODUCE FISH. Fish will create more mess than they clear up, require a filtration system fed by a pump, needing electricity to run it, increasing maintenance and they will also eat most of the plants and other wildlife in the pond. Even the little sticklebacks we fished for as kids in our local streams and ponds will cause havoc in a small garden pond. Steer clear.

A guide to choosing the right plant. Where to grow them and how to prune them. The trick to choosing clematis is simple. The more stems the better, growing from the base and branching strongly and evenly. Ignore single stemmed specimens with clumps of growth on the top third or half of the plant. They have not been well trained in the nursery and unless you prune them hard back to start afresh then they will never develope into anything special. The Good The Bad and the Ugly Below left we see a fresh looking multi stemmed young clematis in a 5 litre pot grown on a 90cm cane. It hasn't yet reached the top of the cane, but that doesn't matter it means it's been nipped out several times while growing. This is how it has so many stems from the base. Next to it is a vigorous single stemmed montana which is heading off the top of the cane. Plenty of signs of fast growth, but I wouldn't buy it because in order to turn this one into a decent plant you'd have to lop most of that off. The plant below is a hopeless mess. If you see this in a garden centre walk past it. It isn't worthy of the compost heap. It shows signs of neglect and it has obviously been left over from the previous year as the lower growth is woody. Now this is a splendid looking group 1 clematis. Plenty of stems coming from the base and branching growth coming off those stems at varying points up the stems. This will turn into a strong, full plant. This little chap is a late flowering group 3 specimen. Again don't worry that it hasn't yet reached the giddy heights of the 90cm cane. In fact to be honest after buying this and getting it home I'd pinch out the top node on each stem to get it to bud out even more. This delays the flowering to later in the year, but no problem, it also means you'll get twice or three times as many flowers then you would if you'd not pinched it out. Training and Growing clematis The classic way the British public grow clematis is throught a trellis on a wall or fence. This of course bares no resemblance to how they grow in their native habitats of South East Europe and the Far East. They are found as ground cover or scrambling through other shrubs and trees. Let's be totally honest, the foliage and stems are not particularly interesting to look at except for the Armandii and Cartmanii. So why parade them on a trellis? Most people allow them to grow straight to the top of a narrow vertical or fan trellis. The result, like the one in the picture below, is a straggly bare stem with a bunch of tangled growth on top with a few flowers. Now these chaps, I trained up a tripod of canes. There are three plants per pot and the canes are 2 metres high. Admittedly not very natural but they were used as examples of how to train them. These are both group 3 clematis. "Madame Julia Correvon" on the left and "Romantika" on the right. These are the late summer flowering ones that you cut hard back in spring. As each new stem reached it's second pair of leaves I nipped out the leading bud. The result, two buds from each joint. Once these attain the same stage I nip out again. Do this at least four times as the plants grow. You can see the results. Flowers all the way up the stem, bundles of growth and virtually no visible canes. Training on wires horizontally is probably the best way to grow clematis against a wall if you really do have to. Watch this video to see what I'm on about. Then come straight back here... Clematis Polish Spirit growing through a Philadelphus. The supporting shrub flowers in May June and is followed by the late flowering clematis which belongs to the group 3's. This group offers an abundance of flowers late into Autumn. Clematis "Madam Julia Correvon" growing through Berberis Juliannae. Again late flowers adding interest to an otherwise dull shrub. Planting and Growing Conditions This is one of the bits of the job that many people stumble on. It is often said that clematis like their roots shaded and cool with their tops in the sun. While this is true to some extent, in order to shade the roots I have seen people using slabs of slate, flat stones and cobbles. What loves to live under these things? What loves to chew new clematis shoots? Yup, slugs. So if you want to shade the roots because you've insisted on growing your clematis unnaturally up against a wall, then use a thick layer of sharp alpine grit. This will create the damp, cool conditions beneath which the roots will enjoy, but will deter slugs and snails. Clematis are greedy feeders when grown in pots or tubs and require regular liquid or slow release granules applying. Not so in the ground, unless your soil is pure sand and all nutrients are leached into the bedrock several feet below by the slightest shower. There will be enough nutrients in the soil to fulfill their needs. Plus the roots will be encouraged to grow deeper and wider in search of them. If you are going to plant against a wall make sure the root ball is at least 45cms away from the wall itself to reduce the drying action of the stone/brick. Being porous, moisture will be leached out from the soil into the wall and clematis will suffer from lack of water. When done correctly a clematis grown against a wall can be quite spectacular, like this Perle D'Azure growing in the Helmsley Walled Garden. The Pruning Groups 1 Flower early in the year like Macropetalla, Alpina and Montana. Prune as much as required as soon as flowering is finished. 2 Flower Early Summer and often again in late summer. Large flowers like Nelly Moser, Lasurstern and the hybridised double flowering Multi Blue. Prune lightly in March. They produce flower buds after only 4 to 6 pairs of leaves. (Personally I think they're a bit of a faff and wouldn't have one given) 3 Flower mid to late Summer. Produce a mass of flowers like Viticellas, Texensis and Tanguticas. Prune hard down in March almost to 3 to 4 buds above ground level, (except Tanguticas. Just prune them lightly to keep them in check). The group 3's produce flower buds after a dozen or more pairs of leaves. (Really easy to prune and give the best value for money) Where did I learn all of this? I worked for 2 years in a specialist Clematis nursery in County Durham. While there I worked predominantly in the tunnel where the group 1 & 3 clematis were grown. They seldom sold due to previous neglect and lack of pruning. I took them under my wing and began a regime of nipping out young growth to encourage multiple stems. Sales improved dramatically after a bit of care and attention.

I hear people ask for low maintenance gardens with big lawns and few beds and borders. It can take some convincing to make them think that actually, the reverse would be much less work for them. Or me come to that. Lets think seriously about how much time is spent on keeping a formal lawn looking good. Then think about how much time is spent on a shrub or perennial border. The grass will require mowing at least once a week during the summer months. How often do perennials need cutting back? That’s right, once a year. What about shrubs? Well maybe once a year. Some of the slower growing shrubs perhaps less often. Now I know you’re going to say the time spent weeding borders adds up as well. True, weeds in a border are a problem. But what about when the border is well established and brimming with colour from the plants you actually want? Less room for weeds. The pros and cons of hoeing and digging weeds against mulching or using organic herbicides will fill another article. I will slip in the extra lawn care tasks at this point. Aerating, scarifying, top dressing and seasonal weed and feed routines. I would hope that after some careful thought and reflection, plus some calculations, you can see how much more work a formal lawn is. Not only should we take the hours spent on lawn maintenance into account, but also the cost. Fuel for mowers and strimmers. Servicing of these machines. Oil and spares. Even electric grass cutters are using fuel, and let’s be honest, they are such a faff to get out and get switched on. Even while mowing you are constantly trying to avoid the cable. Can we cut down our reliance on machinery to carry out simple tasks like cutting grass? I use a scythe with a meter long meadow blade to get a fine cut, on several of the lawns I manage. I also prefer scything long grass, weeds and rough vegetation. This picture shows a lawn that was neglected through the Spring Lockdown of 2020 during the Covid outbreak. After so many weeks of growth, the only way to get it back under control was with the trusty, none polluting scythe. Some of the newer breeds of push along mowers from Fiskars, Brill and Al-Ko are excellent, easy to use and efficient. Not to mention all the benefits to the environment and your health. This picture below, shows a lawn kept in tip top condition with a Fiskars momentum lawn mower. The clippings are not collected, but allowed to drop back into the grass to feed the soil. This is called 'mulch mowing.' Now what about the weeding of lawns? Where do I start? Moss, daisies, clover, dandelions, creeping buttercup, and black medic the list is endless. So many of the lawns I see are moss havens. And you know, to be honest it doesn’t worry me. The Japanese embrace moss in all it’s many and varied forms. Why cant we? The reason moss and other so-called lawn weeds thrive is because the majority of British gardeners cut their grass far too short. Scalping the grass down to the base reveals yellow, chlorophyll free culm. Not only that but they remove the cut material. Yup! that's a bad thing. 'Cut and remove' is how you manage a wild flower meadow, to deplete the nutrient levels in the soil. Wild flowers love that! Grass does not! Bearing all this in mind are you not inclined to agree that maintaining a formal lawn is an awful lot of work? There is of course an alternative to having acres of stripes. Sowing an area of native wild flowers and grasses and allowing them to just grow will save you so much backache and money. Sit back and enjoy the new encounters you will experience every day as new buds emerge and flower. As the area develops, annuals give way to the perennials. So not only will you witness changes through the season but also from year to year. The wildlife in your garden will increase with bees, hoverflies, butterflies as well as grass pollinating moths and birds. You can relax admiring your contribution to nature while listening to your neighbours wrestling with their mowers. After years of filling my garden to the brim with as many exotic shrubs and plants as possible, my garden has undergone a transformation in the last few years. After digging out the shrubs and perennials, I have introduced native wildflowers and plants as well as native shrubs. This photo shows my front garden in the summer of 2014. The change in how much time I spend working in the garden is amazing. I spend so much more of my time in simply watching and enjoying what goes on in the garden around me. Isn’t that how it should be? I hope this has given some of you food for thought and inspiration to perhaps make changes in your own gardens. They needn't be huge or budget shattering. Even a change in how you manage a lawn can make a huge difference to what will grow. Raise the height of cut on your mower, allowing the daisies and clover to flower. You'll be pleasantly surprised at what will come into the garden as a result of new pollen sources being allowed to thrive. I would encourage a little caution when choosing what are often called wildflower mixes in garden centres and nursery catalogues. Many that I have seen often contain exotic species. These are added for their colour or insect attracting qualities. But beware, some exotic flowers act as a narcotic to insects, making them addicted to the flower at the expense of all surrounding, more worthy blooms. Buddliea is guilty of this. I shall write another article in which I'll list naughty foreign types and recommend a native plant or shrub that will easily substitute.

There are many simple things you can do in your garden to help wildlife. ​ Ponds are an obvious choice if you have the space. But even a small container in the corner of a #garden can offer a place for small #amphibians and aquatic invertebrates to thrive. A #pond also increases the choice of interesting #plants you can grow. A log pile in a sheltered corner will offer safety and foraging opportunities for small #mammals, #amphibians and #reptiles as well as #invertebrates. Even small #birds like wren, robin and hedge sparrow will nest in a good compact log or brash pile. A dead hedge will provide nesting and shelter for birds as well as other creatures. ​A #bug box or #insect hotels like this one will be useful for attracting predator insects and solitary #bees. It doesn't need to be elaborate. A simple bundle of small twigs stuck into a hedge or attached to a fence will suit many insects. They aren't fussy! ​Children will be fascinated by the wealth of #animals that come to make use of the facilities you provide. Planting #wildflowers will encourage lots of pollinating insects like #bees, #hoverflies and #butterflies as well as #moths #Dragonfly and #damselflies will swoop by during the summer months laying eggs in the water and catching smaller insects on the wing. Native hedging plants and trees will also offer much more opportunities for wildlife. As well as places for birds to hide and roost in overnight, they can forage for berries in Autumn and Winter. Many native hedging plants produce flowers in Spring and Summer for insects. A dry stone wall is an incredible feature to have in your garden. Not only do they look amazing, but there are masses of opportunities for small animals to take shelter in a dry stone wall. I hope you have found this useful and are inspired to add something to your own garden to help wildlife. Let's be honest, before our houses were here, there was probably a thriving community of plants and animals. Giving them something back is the least we can do.