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5 Best Ways to Combat Slugs and Snails in Your UK Garden – The Organic Way Plus a bonus tip that might just surprise the heck out of you, Goldilocks and the three bears. ??? Slugs and snails (molluscs) are every gardener’s nemesis, devouring tender seedlings and leaving plants in tatters. While chemical solutions may be effective, they can harm beneficial wildlife and disrupt the natural balance of your garden. Fortunately, there are several organic methods to keep these slimy pests at bay. Here are the five best ways to combat slugs and snails naturally and sustainably. 1. Encourage Natural Predators Nature provides its own pest control in the form of predators that feed on slugs and snails. By creating a wildlife-friendly garden, you can invite these beneficial creatures to take up residence. Encourage Slow Worms. Slow worms are our native legless lizards, here in the UK and Europe. Harmless and shy they are often present in a garden without the gardener even knowing. They like warm places to bask and shelter in. Something as simple as a tin sheet or square of rubber matting, such as a floor mat from a vehicle, or a scrap of butryl pond liner, can be left in a sunny corner surrounded by tall grass or plants. Slow worms will shelter beneath this, keeping warm and feeding on the slugs that are similarly attracted to the shelter. They can live up to thirty years and a good eighty percent of their diet is slugs. Slow worm Anguis fragilis basking in bracken. Providing 30 years of natural slug control. Hedgehogs : These spiky nocturnal creatures love munching on slugs and snals. Providing hedgehog houses, piles of leaves, and shallow water dishes can encourage them into your garden. You might not see them directly but they leave fairly obvious signs that they are foraging in your garden. Check your lawn for small dark pellets of poop. Frogs and Toads : A small pond or damp area will attract amphibians, which are excellent slug hunters. But even without a pond, amphibians are great wanderers and spend plenty of time plodding around at night or in damp weather. If you have a good supply of slugs and snails these helpful herps* will hang around for the buffet. Common frog Rana temporaria. Ground Beetles and Birds : Leave leaf litter on beds and borders over the autumn and winter. Not only does this act as a mulch, protecting the soil and roots of your plants from harsh frosts, but it allows soil organisms to remain active for longer. Such as worms acting to enrich the soil by dragging the leaves underground, where they decompose and release nutrients into the soil. Slugs and snails will forage in the leaf litter beneath the surface making them easy to find for robins, blackbirds and thrushes. Encourage birds by providing natural habitat features such as wild flower borders and dead hedges for them to forage and nest in. Blackbirds and thrushes are very good at keeping your snail populations in check. 2. Use Physical Barriers Creating barriers around plants can prevent slugs and snails from reaching them. Several natural and effective materials can be used: Crushed Eggshells : The sharp edges deter slugs from crossing. Copper Tape : Slugs and snails dislike the electric charge created when they touch copper, making this an effective deterrent. Wool Pellets : These absorb moisture and irritate slugs, discouraging them from crossing. Sheep fleece laid out as a mulch over beg plots is an excellent weed supressant as well as acting as a barrier to slugs and snails. It's really cheap to get from local farms as well, as it has pretty much no worth at all. Sand and Grit : A rough-textured surface can deter slugs, as they prefer smooth, damp environments. 3. Create Beer Traps A tried-and-tested organic method, beer traps lure slugs and snails into a container filled with beer, where they drown. Here’s how to make one: Bury a shallow container in the soil, with the rim just above ground level. Fill it halfway with beer (cheap lager or ale works best). Empty and refill every few days as needed. Slugs are attracted to the yeast in beer, making this an effective way to reduce their numbers. Emptying these traps is a pretty disgusting chore to be honest, so I don't use them. I have a much more user friendly way of controlling slugs and snails. Porridge Oats. The ultimate in organic mollusc control! A Bold Statement! Do you use slug pellets? Are they supposedly organic? Would YOU eat them? No, I bet you wouldn't. I eat the pellets I use. Porridge oats work very effectively in controlling slugs and snails. Place dry oats under a slate or other cover in the garden. When the slug or snail eats the oats (which they will) the oats swell up. This disables the mollusc and they cease to exist. I'm trying to be as delicate in my wording as possible here. If any other predator up the food chain then devours the deceased mollusc then they are unharmed. The oats have already swollen and the slug or snail isn't filled with toxins. Slugs and Oats. That well known duo. 4. Introduce Nematodes Biological control is an excellent, natural way to keep slug populations in check. Nematodes (microscopic parasitic worms) are a highly effective solution. How They Work : These beneficial organisms are applied to the soil and infect slugs, causing them to stop feeding and eventually die. Application : Nematodes need warm, moist soil to be effective, so apply them in spring and autumn when soil temperatures are above 5°C. Where to Buy : Available online and at garden centres, nematodes are a chemical-free, targeted way to deal with slugs. Nematode in close up. 5. Practice Smart Planting Some plants are naturally resistant to slug and snail damage, and using them strategically in your garden can help minimize the problem. Mollusc-Resistant Plants : Ferns, lavender, rosemary, and foxgloves are less appealing to molluscs. Sacrificial Planting : Grow highly attractive plants, like lettuce or marigolds, in a separate area to lure slugs and snails away from your main crops. Raised Beds and Containers : Growing plants in raised beds or pots can help protect them from ground-dwelling slugs. These raised pots and troughs are easy t ofix copper tape to. As mentioned above. Conclusion Combating slugs and snails organically requires a multi-pronged approach, but with persistence, you can protect your plants without resorting to harmful chemicals. By encouraging natural predators, using barriers, setting traps, introducing nematodes, and practicing smart planting, your garden can thrive while staying in harmony with nature. As with anything, it's all about balance. Create a natural habitat and the ecosystem that developes within it will maintain itself. The further from nature your garden is the harder you will have to work to keep it in order. Go wild. Try these methods and enjoy a healthier, more sustainable garden! *Herps is the abreviation of herpetofauna or herptiles which are collective terms for reptiles and amphibians.

Captivating Garden Spaces Pollinators play a vital role in the reproduction of many plants we rely on for food and beauty. By selecting native plants, you can cultivate a welcoming habitat right in your backyard. Let's explore the benefits of pollinator-friendly gardens, identify the best native plants, and delve into effective maintenance tips for nurturing your natural oasis. Benefits of Pollinator-Friendly Gardens When planning your garden, focusing on beauty or food production is common. However, pollinator-friendly gardens provide numerous advantages that extend beyond simple aesthetics. One primary benefit is the support given to our ecosystem. In fact, about 75% of global crops depend on animal pollination. This includes popular food groups like fruits, nuts and berries. The grass based crops like wheat, barley and oats are wind pollinated . By encouraging pollinators, you contribute significantly to local and global food production. Native plants also have an edge; they are well-suited to local climates. These plants require less water, reduce the need for fertilizers, and lead to lower maintenance costs. For example, native plants can reduce water usage by 30% to 50% , compared to non-native species under similar conditions. Additionally, a vibrant garden positively impacts mental health. Research suggests that spending just 20 minutes in nature can lower stress levels and enhance mood. The beauty of the flowers and the presence of pollinators can turn any outdoor space into a calming retreat. Unless you have a phobia of buzzing insects and or butterlies and moths. In which case I would suggest some therapy to get over that, as phobias can be debilitating. Top 3 Native Plants for Attracting Pollinators Now that you're on board with the idea of a native plant garden, you may wonder which ones to include. Here’s a selection of my top 3 native plants that will attract pollinators and thrive in your space: 1. Field scabious Eye-level view of vibrant field scabious in a sunny herbaceous perennial border. Field Scabious Field scabious, scientifically known as Knautia arvensis , is a captivating wildflower that adds charm and beauty to meadows and gardens. This perennial plant is known for its unique, rounded flower heads and its ability to attract a variety of pollinators. Characteristics Flowers: The flower heads of field scabious are typically a soft lavender or pale blue color, creating a striking visual display. Each head is made up of numerous small florets, which bloom from late spring to early autumn. Height: The plant usually grows between 60 to 90 cm (24 to 36 inches) tall, with sturdy stems that can withstand wind and rain. Leaves: The leaves are lance-shaped and deeply lobed, providing a lush green backdrop to the delicate flowers. Habitat and Growth Conditions Soil: Field scabious is adaptable and can thrive in a variety of soil types, including sandy and clay soils, as long as they are well-drained. Sunlight: This plant prefers full sun to partial shade, making it a versatile choice for different garden settings. Watering: Once established, field scabious is drought-tolerant and requires minimal watering. Ecological Benefits Pollinator Attraction: The vibrant flowers of field scabious are especially attractive to bees, butterflies, and other beneficial insects, making it an excellent choice for pollinator gardens. Biodiversity: By planting field scabious, gardeners can support local ecosystems and promote biodiversity in their gardens. Care and Maintenance Pruning: Deadheading spent flowers can encourage prolonged blooming and prevent self-seeding if desired. Fertilization: Generally, field scabious does not require fertilization, but a light application of compost in spring can promote healthy growth. In conclusion, field scabious is a resilient and beautiful wildflower that not only enhances the aesthetic appeal of gardens but also plays a vital role in supporting pollinator populations. Its low maintenance requirements and adaptability make it an excellent choice for both novice and experienced gardeners. 2. Greater knapweed Greater knapweed flowers open up from fascinating cone shaped buds. Greater knapweed, scientifically known as Centaurea scabiosa , is a perennial flowering plant that belongs to the Asteraceae family. Native to the UK, Europe and parts of Asia, Physical Characteristics Height: Greater knapweed typically grows between 30 to 60cm tall. Leaves: The leaves are deeply lobed, with a grayish-green color, and can grow up to 6 inches long. Flowers: The plant produces large, thistle-like flower heads, usually in shades of purple, pink, or white, which bloom from late spring to early autumn. Ecological Role Greater knapweed plays a significant role in its ecosystem, particularly in attracting a variety of pollinators. Its vibrant flowers are known to draw in bees, butterflies, and other beneficial insects. Conclusion Greater knapweed is admired for its striking appearance and its ability to attract pollinators. An excellent choice to add into a perennial border. 3 Vipers bugloss Vipers bugloss produces a multitude of vibrant flowers. Vipers Bugloss in UK Gardens Vipers bugloss, scientifically known as Echium vulgare , is a stunning wildflower that has gained popularity in UK gardens for its vibrant blooms and ecological benefits. This biennial plant is characterized by its tall spikes adorned with clusters of bright blue flowers, which can also be purple or pink. Its unique appearance and ability to attract pollinators make it a valuable addition to any garden. Ecological Benefits One of the primary reasons gardeners are drawn to vipers bugloss is its role in supporting local wildlife. The flowers are rich in nectar, making them a favorite among various pollinators. They are one of only a few plants which replace their nectar at a very rapid pace, allowing bees and other pollinators to return to the same flower on a plant time after time in a short period. including: Bees Butterflies Hoverflies. Garden Aesthetics Vipers bugloss adds a striking visual element to gardens. Its tall, elegant spikes can reach heights of up to 1 meter, creating a dramatic focal point. The vibrant blue flowers bloom from late spring to early autumn, providing a long-lasting display of color. This makes it an excellent choice for: Wildflower gardens Pollinator-friendly spaces Naturalistic landscaping Growing Conditions Vipers bugloss is relatively easy to grow and can thrive in a variety of conditions. Here are some key points to consider: Soil: Prefers well-drained soil but can tolerate poorer soils. Sunlight: Enjoys full sun and can withstand dry conditions. Maintenance: Low maintenance, requiring minimal watering once established. Conclusion Incorporating vipers bugloss into UK gardens not only enhances the visual appeal but also promotes biodiversity by attracting essential pollinators. Its resilience and ease of care make it a fantastic choice for both novice and experienced gardeners looking to create a vibrant, eco-friendly space. While this short list isn't the bee all and end all (do you see what I did there?) These three species offer a great abundance of nectar rich flowers over several months. When incorporated into a border or meadow style planting scheme, with a multitude of other native plants, your garden will become a haven for all things six legged. Tips for Maintaining a Garden that Supports Pollinators Creating a stunning garden is just the hard part. Maintenance is easy and limited. Here are some practical tips to ensure your garden continues to be a refuge for pollinators: 1. Provide a Variety of Plants Diversifying plant species enhances the garden’s appeal to different pollinators. Planting a mix that blooms in spring, summer, and autumn ensures a continuous food source. For example, combining the above mentioned plants can provide nectar throughout the growing season. 2. Avoid Pesticides Natural pest control methods are best for protecting precious pollinators.Going native will attract beneficial insects like ladybirds, lacewings and hoverflies. These alternatives can help maintain a balanced ecosystem without jeopardizing the health of pollinators. 3. Create Habitat Structure Pollinators require safe spaces to nest and rest. Incorporate elements like brush piles, bee hotels, and areas with bare soil to encourage nesting. This diversity creates a strong habitat that welcomes various pollinators. 4. Water Source Pollinators, like humans, need hydration. Adding a shallow birdbath or small pond provides them with a safe drinking space. Ensure they can rest while accessing water to make it inviting and safe. Nature before neat. Dont be too neat and tidy. Allow the odd pile of cut material to gather under a hedge or in a sheltered sunny spot. Leave those taller perennials to stand over winter. Rake the leaves from the paths, patios and lawns but leave them on the borders and beds as a mulch and refuge for smaller animals and insects. Transform Your Space into a Pollinator Paradise Creating a buzz with native plants is essential for nurturing our environment and enriching our lives. By attracting pollinators to your garden, you add vibrant colors and delightful scents and support a thriving ecosystem that benefits your surroundings. With the right selection of native plants and mindful maintenance, you can cultivate a welcoming space for these busy helpers. Grab your gardening tools, get planting, and watch your outdoor space evolve into an enchanting haven for pollinators!

The largest native   terrestrial  reptile in the UK. I have to include those points to deter the keyboard warriors from highlighting that we occasionally get turtles visiting out shores and there are two well established populations of aesculapian snakes in the UK now. London’s Regents Park and in and around Colwyn Bay. These are larger than grass snakes and are the snakes seen on all ambulances and hospital signs, wrapped around a staff. Yeah, that one. So our native grass snake Natrix natrix helvetica, has, in days gone by, been recorded as obtaining lengths in excess of two meters. That’s six feet, for those of you reading this in the nineteen fifties. A beautiful grass snake found in Dorset. Photo J R Grundy. They are typical colubrids with large round eyes, unlike the adder or Reform mp’s who have slit pupils. A distinct neck, slender body, keeled scales, which give them a rough feel and a delightful checker board pattern on their undersides. The face is heavily marked with black and cream upper lips and Alice Cooper make up under the eyes. All these features make the grass snake a distinctly attractive beast. The classic cream, yellow and black collar gives it its other common name collard snake. Certainly across mainland Europe they are referred to by this feature. German Ringelnatter, Dutch Ringslang, French Couleuvre à collier, Italian Biscia dal collare, Spanish (Castilian) Culebra de collar, Basque Suge gorbataduna. You get the picture. Feeding on fish, amphibians and small mammals these inoffensive reptiles can become quite habituated to human activity and are often encountered in garden ponds and compost heaps. Compost heaps, I hear you cry. Yes, indeed. In fact any warm mound of vegetation can offer the grass snake just what it needs in a habitat. Unlike our other native reptiles, the common lizard, slow worm, smooth snake and adder, which give birth to live young, the grass snake relies on a natural incubator in which to lay it’s eggs. Hence their affiliation with humous. Only the grass snake and sand lizard lay eggs. Grass pile nest heap for snakes with a tarpaulin cover for protection. Photo J R Grundy Which brings us nicely to the point of this article. As gardeners we are always left with the issue of what to do with our arisings. That's the posh and often regarded as annoying word for waste products. How your piles can benefit grass snakes Well, good people, worry not. There is a way we can help our herpetofauna. (Collective term for amphibians and reptiles).  A well placed heap of slowly decomposing grass can provide grass snakes with the perfect nesting opportunity. Pile your mowings in a sunny corner, beneath a hedge, tree line or against a bank. Not too close to a water source, to avoid nutrient leaching. Other wildlife will benefit from these piles as well as the snakes. Other reptiles will of course enjoy the warmth, shelter and foraging within the heap. Small mammals and invertebrates and of course amphibians. In areas where predation of the eggs may be an issue, from badgers, pheasants, chickens etc, a tarpaulin placed over the heap can help protect from curious claws and teeth. Some fresh grass can be mown (with a scythe preferrably) in late May and placed in a heap a meter square and no more than fifty centimetres high. This is then left, with a tarp over the top. Hopefully within a few short years loyal female grass snakes will use your heap for nesting purposes. By mid June they will have all deposited clutches of soft shelled, grape sized eggs in sticky clusters. The adult snakes remain in the warmth of the nest heap. This is not out of some nurturing parental behaviour but purely because of the security and temperature. Also the heap attracts amphibians, which allows the snakes to feed without having to risk predation themselves out in the big bad world. The distinct collar and Alice Cooper eye makeup set the grass snake apart from our other native snakes. Photo J R Grundy. So, I’m sure we can all find a few meters of grass in the corner of a meadow or lawn somewhere that needs a little snip in May. Pile it up somewhere appropriate and leave it be. By the end of August most, if not all the eggs will have hatched and the young snakes will have upped and left. As will the adults. There is a temptation by some in conservation circles to top up the heaps to help maintain the heat. While this is done with good intentions it does run the risk of squashing the eggs. They are laid close to the surface and as a result can suffer if too much weight is added. As mentioned, reptile eggs are soft shelled, not hard like birds. Grass snakes, like all native reptiles, are in decline from habitat loss, predation, persecution from idiots and loss of nesting sites. In County Durham and Northumberland for example, no confirmed sightings have been recorded since 2007. So any effort we can make to assist these stunning creatures would be well received. Maybe your local wildlife trust would be happy to have some free snake nesting material. Perhaps you could contact your county amphibian and reptile group to assist with some habitat management. Local groups can be found listed in the ARG UK website. www.arguk.org/get-involved/local-groups . My own back garden in May. Three Ponds, wild flowers, log piles and dead hedges. All perfect habitat. Photo J R Grundy. Gardens make up a massive amount of land in the UK and this is increasing year on year with the pressures from new housing projects. So as we take away, so should we give back. Ponds are great for providing a food source for grass snakes. Log piles and stone heaps are essential places to hibernate and take shelter. As well as being hugely important to a host of small animals. But vital to the grass snakes survival is the provision of nesting sites. So please consider providing a simple nest heap. All animals are important in an ecosystem. Without one level in the food web it may well collapse and reptiles and amphibians are regarded as key indicators of a healthy biodiverse habitat. They are postioned in that mid level where they prey upon many smaller animals, including some pests, as well as being preyed upon themselves by larger mammals and birds in the chain. So lets do our part. Go out there and get grubby. Build some heaps.

Discover the difference between a wildflower/formal style lawn and which would be right for you. Wildflower lawns verses formal lawns How easy are they? As a landscape gardener it often puzzles me when people ask for low maintenance gardens, in which they want huge expanses of grass with few beds and borders. It can take some convincing to make them think that actually the reverse would be much less work for them. Or me come to that. Lets think seriously about how much time is spent on keeping a formal lawn looking good. Then think about how much time is spent on a wild flower lawn. On a formal lawn the grass will require mowing at least once a week during the summer months. What about extra lawn care tasks during the Spring and Autumn? Aerating Scarifying Top dressing and seasonal Weed and feed routines. This all adds up to many hours of your life spent looking after a formal lawn. And what do you get in return? Stripes, an endless battle with moss, broadleaved weeds and pests, an ever increasing burden on your wallet and unnatural levels of fertiliser in the soil. Take a deep breath So lets look at the amount of work required to maintain a wild flower lawn or meadow. How often will it require mowing for example? Usually only once or twice a year. This involves a cut, followed by removal of the cut material. This can be done a day or two after mowing to allow seeds to drop back into the soil. What seasonal management does it need? See above. No pest or weed control. No additional chemical or granular fertilisers. No aerating. No scarifying. No top dressing. This adds up to a lot less of your time and money being spent on managing the same area of your garden. And what do you get in return? A long season of colour. Interest from the variety of flowers. An increase in insect life and other wildlife coming to visit the garden. Less stress. More time to relax. A fatter wallet. Fewer machines cluttering the shed. A more natural healthy soil. Less pollution in the atmosphere. An overwhelming sense of wellbeing and superiority when you sit in your garden listening to the neighbours wrestling with their mowers and strimmers.

Scything is an excellent, economical and environmentally friendly way to manage your lawns or meadows. Training courses available. Scything Scything is an excellent, economical and environmentally friendly way to manage your lawns or meadows. Scything is rapidly becoming more popular as a way to maintain lawns and meadows. Conservation charities and gardening groups, as well as individuals, are all getting on board with this traditional tool. With their light weight and ease of use, many people find scythes are an ideal substitute for powered machines. To find out if I'm all legit & can be trusted Benefits Of Scythes Cheaper to buy than strimmers/brushcutters and mowers. Costs nothing to use each time you mow. You aren't using fuel or electricity. No other ongoing costs, like fuel, oil, grease, plastic cord. You can maintain a scythe yourself, so there are no servicing costs. No atmospheric pollution from petrol fumes. No noise pollution from engines. No environmental pollution from bits of plastic cord being spread across the landscape. No need for ear, eye or face protection. You can get away without gloves or steel capped boots if you want. More pleasant to work as a team. Safe mowing distance between scythes is 3 meters. Safe mowing distance between strimmer operators 15 meters. Regular scything is a great cardio exercise and core strength builder. Many of the people I have trained are on my mailing list the North East Cereal Killers . A volunteer group who help each other out with mowing large areas (usually in return for tea and cake) You might like to join also and get involved.

Highlighting the pros and cons between strimmers and scythes for those wanting to budget for their grassland management. Scythe V Strimmer If you're wondering about the advantages of a scythe over a strimmer then perhaps this page will help you make the right decision for your grass management plans. If your work is in conservation, land management, community groups or as a small holder, then it's well worth taking the time to seriously consider which tool will be best for you. Scythe V Strimmer Cost Servicing costs Spare parts Fuel Full kit £226 None. Can be done in house by trained staff & vols. Optional. Additions to kit if required. None Cost Annual Servicing costs Spare parts Fuel FS 361 PETROL CLEARING SAW £1039 Plus PPE and harness £120 per machine by professional mechanics. Approx £30 per cord spool approx £3.50 Per tank full 0.75lt per hour approximately. Plus oil and grease Pollution Noise. None Environmental. None Atmospheric. None Noise. 100 dB(A) 2) Environmental. Littering of plastic cord. Atmospheric. Unregulated emissions. Engagement & Safety As an engagement tool within conservation the scythe wins hands down. Visitors are naturally drawn to watching a scythe in action. Due to it’s silent operation users can engage with visitors while mowing. Teams can chat with each other while working. The prescribed safe mowing distance between scythers is 3 meters. No PPE is required, so awareness of others and wildlife is greatly increased. The lack of vibration means no risk of inducing finger or hand related issues. The mowers fitness levels are the only limiting factor in scythe mowing. As an engagement tool within conservation the strimmer is a repellent. Visitors are naturally annoyed by strimmers and will avoid close contact at all costs. The noise from strimmers makes it impossible to engage with visitors. Strimmer operators can not chat with colleagues. The prescribed safe mowing distance between strimmer operators is 15 meters PPE and harnesses are uncomfortable and reduce awareness of others and wildlife. Vibration from the machine can induce carpel tunnel syndrome, vibration white finger and Raynauds, reducing the time allowed to safely operate strimmers.